RETURN OF THE FASHION MODELS

I think we all have an interest in the new, maybe it's the modern sensibility. We are always looking for the new trend, the new thing, the new cool. This is especially true in fashion, maybe in a way that isn’t always positive. Trends, faces, collections, are in one season and out the other. I think we all miss longevity. More specifically, longevity with models. I certainly miss the industry backing new faces for longevity instead of only investing long term in already established models. There’s been new faces every season for decades but what used to be a causeway into long careers has now been replaced by an ‘in one season, out the other’ system. A system that's not great because it treats models/ people like garments and no longer has any regard for potential. There used to be a demand for new models with the intent to build their career but that's no longer the case. There are so many other competitors over model jobs that fashion seems to believe there's no need to invest in today's new models. There's no longer that eagerness to find tomorrow’s next big model, the way there was when the likes of Sean O’pry, Adut Akech or Alton Mason came out. One of the many problems right now is fascination with quantity and newness. There are so many new faces right now it’s hard to keep up, even for me. Every brand wants the newest face and in this day and age we’re certainly not short on models, it is todays must have job. However, while the idea of everyone getting an opportunity to have their model moment is amazing, we also have to make room for faces that have potential to really do the job well. We shouldn’t be throwing every new season's fresh models out with last year's collections ready for an influx of newer faces in the next season. We have to focus on quality again and potential, spark and versatility. It's important to highlight the faces that are bringing new and much needed energy to fashion. I think this conversation also lends itself to the debate of only nepotism babies, tik tokers and partners of designers being the only people fronting campaigns and getting good work lately. Regular work for the working top model is even becoming a scarce thing because of all the ‘talent’ being added to the mix and competing for the same jobs; ‘Talent’ may I add that isn't always right for the job/ can’t deliver anything besides status. I think it’s important to highlight that there are a few models who are products of nepotism that have gone on to do the job extremely well, such as Bella Hadid and Parker Van Noord but we’re not necessarily speaking about those rare instances. This is more towards the laziness of the industry to build status from the ground up for a new model. It’s baffling because the industry has always benefited so much more from helping to create a star than taking one from an already famous/established family or social media platform and adding them to a show or campaign. A lot of us would agree it's much more interesting to see someone virtually unknown become an icon, that's how we got the first ever male and female supermodels, or those world stopping street scouted Calvin Klein models. Fashion has to stop understating its influence, we don't need already established stars, WE CAN MAKE THEM. Fashion can make a star and invite the world in instead of asking an influencer to invite the world into fashion. And though people might question why it’s important to invest in unknown/ new models when the career of a model is so short, I'd argue that the career relevance of influencers and other unqualified talent is much shorter. Furthermore, it's still important to have models that do their job well and that we can really get the best out of. It goes with the idea of sustainability and production longevity because as we see in terms of influencers and social media buzz, it’s fickle, so someone who is relevant today with millions of followers isn't tomorrow. What that creates is the need to keep changing the faces of brands to keep up when the world ultimately decides they are irrelevant or canceled (as we’ve seen with recent articles on nepotism and the constant backlash and cancellations of social influencers who have no brand loyalty or passion for fashion). Whereas if fashion nurtures young faces and develops them, it can find a way to stretch that period of relevancy as long as it wants to and also weave out talent (models or otherwise) that doesn't deliver. This way fashion gets to tell the world when something is irrelevant not the other way round. It’s evident in how models like Simon Nessman, Fernando Cabral and even the more recent Kit Butler are very much still working and delivering amazing work in fashion today. It also makes me think about the early Versace, Calvin Klein or even Prada campaigns that still show up today and very much are still working overtime to represent those brands, not because they starred someone's famous daughter or a tik tok star but because they were so well casted and well done that you understood exactly what the ideas behind the productions were. So even if those brands stopped making campaigns, there’s work with such well casted fashion models that will continue to represent the brand’s and creators message. It’s all because the models before understood they had to deliver characters and be passionate in the creation of an image or representing a brand, because they were being invested in and built up by the industry. That’s not the same thing we have now, these days we have 1. Already established Top models that are pretty much the only actual models being used in major work, competing with people outside the industry, 2. Casted Influencers that just see fashion as a way to get free clothes and be invited to events and 3. Nepotism babies that ride off the buzz of their name and do very little to bring something unique to the table. And as cool as it is that fashion is backing its peers' children and the influencers of the social media age, we are in desperate need of true talent, new talent, models that are ready to put in the work to deliver images to last a lifetime not just for the year or season. Although that's not a place we are going to get back to overnight, it’s pivotal we start somewhere. We need to pause and take a second to ask, is this the best person for the job? Can we make something long term of this person? Can they learn to take this job as the serious craft that it is? Below this article is a list compiled of models that have potential to be the stars we need. These new faces exude unique qualities that can help them be shaped into major talent. Models that can actually push fashion past the funk that it's in right now of choosing quantity over quality, connections over talent, and deliver really great work. And although there are even more models than just these, deserving of the recognition, these are the ones that stand out at this moment. These models can last the long run with the industry’s support. Faces you can build brands and ideas around. I ask the industry to help spot the rest of models that might not be on this list that are just as worthy of this spotlight and give them the support and nurturing they need to lead the industry forward. In all this, I hope we can get to the place where images are interesting again, where casting is focusing on making the best production result and making long term investments.

1. Akbar Shamji (nextmodels) @akbarshamii

Akbar Shamji is probably the most interesting new model out right now. He isn’t a face we are used to seeing in campaigns and magazines. He offers something much different, more unique than any other model that has surfaced in the last few years. He made his debut at the brand of Tom Ford, not only walking for their SS23 runway show but featuring in multiple sectors of their holiday FW22-23 campaigns, Tom Ford Eyewear SS23 and Tom Ford Grey Vetiver Fragrance, an incredible start to a newcomer. We also saw him all over the FW23 runways too, walking for Burberry, Hermes, Thom Browne, Versace and Ludovic de Saint Sernin to name a few. As beautiful as he is, it’s his personality that I think will help

him take over the fashion industry. He has a movie star charisma that is very rare to find in new models, Supermodels have that charisma. It's a quality that has allowed the likes of Linda Linda Evangelista and Mark Vanderloo to bring to life the iconic work we now know them for. Akbar has the duality and dynamic energy a model needs to really adapt to the art form modeling is. I think the industry could really benefit from building a model like this to be a superstar. Fashion needs a face that's a breath of fresh air, that people can marvel at and be excited by.

2. Anthony Thomason (Ford Models) @anthonythomason

A dying artform of the male modeling industry is the Debut, very few agencies see the importance of it anymore. A model being able to debut in just one big campaign while being virtually unknown is the ultimate testament to the model themselves. This is the case for Anthony Thomason who made his first appearance on the SS23 Versace runway, followed that by booking one of this year's most iconic campaigns, the Versace SS23 Campaign, alongside veteran male supermodels Mark Vanderloo and Ivan De Pineda. The last model to make such a debut was the incomparable Noah L Brown in the Versace SS18 Campaign, who has since had an incredibly successful career and I can only predict the same for a face like Anthony Thomason. He was also spotted on the Versace FW23 California runway show and is currently a cover star for Harper's Bazaar, an amazing achievement for a male model. Anthonty will definitely be one to watch and a face that the industry can build momentum and a persona around to make an all round new age Top Model.

3. Cas van Uytvanck (Tomorrow is Another Day) @casvu

Very few male models can hold their own in a campaign with top female models, Cas is amongst that select group. His appearance in the Valentino Toile 2022 Campaign made him a sure contender for an uprising talent but reappearance in the VALENTINOS SS23 Campaign made him a certain bet. He also had a solid season walking for Saint Laurent’s much revered FW23 collection, Valentino’s Haute Couture SS23 show and Walter Van Beirendonck F/W 23. Cas had this very strong face that has both the ability to be very soft and very masculine, the kind of face that could front a womens or mens campaign as we’ve seen with Valentino. I think as we’re moving into genderless era of fashion, models like Cas will be at the forefront; a model that looks natural in every context for clothes, make up, hair or jewelry. Fashion could really make something amazing out of a face like this.

4. Chris Araya Colvin (Soul Management) @st.chriiis

Chris Araya is genuinely one of the most thrilling new faces to watch right now. He is what the English would describe as ‘cheeky’ a term reserved for something that is a little mischievous and a little sexy. Seen walking the Burberry FW23 Collection and starring in the latest D&G campaign alongside international popstar Anitta, Chris managed to hold his own meanwhile getting you to want to know more about him. Even another pop star would struggle to sparkle next to Anitta but he does just that. Every image he appears in has so much life and is a dose of fun and sexiness that fashion needs again. Someone to bring a boyish charm along with a killer face. With the enthusiasm for images and movement Chris shows in his work, someone like him can help fashion lighten up again and be as fun as it used to be.

5. Brennan Aldred (Brother Models) @brennan_aldred

The first time I think most of us saw Brennan was during that infamous Diesel SS22 bag campaign of his bare torso. Something was revived in most of us looking at that image. It reminded the world how much we have missed body models. Brennan can also be seen in the Dsquared FW22 Campaign and the ACNE Studios FW23 Lookbook. Brennan Aldred has the feeling of the much missed CK models of the early 2010s that used to sell us underwear like they were a million dollar item. That's what a model is, a medium to sell a fantasy and give expense to a product. A model like this could sell sand to a beach because he has a quality that demands desire for the thing he’s selling. Brennan Aldred has shown that he is able to deliver in a high fashion editorial but provide us the sex appeal of the body model we desperately need back.

6. Nile Winchester (Next Models) @nilewinchesterrr

Nile is a relatively new face in fashion, his most notable work being that with Ralph Lauren x Fortnight Campaign 22-23. Nile also appeared in Zara FW22 editorials and Bershka Lookbook FW22 looks. Nile has the vibe of a 90s model, not only to his looks but his persona. He has this nostalgic face that reminds me of models that start off teen heartthrobs but grow even more into their looks and craft as the years pass. Nile feels like the kind of model that is in it for the long hall, growing into the stature and appeal of beloved models like Jason Olive or Tyson Beckford. Fashion needs a model that is a slow burn, that builds their name over time to be an industry favorite.

7. Luke Champion (NextModels) @luke_champ

Luke Champion is the type of model that feels like a character. His appearance in the Bottega Campaign SS22 piqued everyone's interest. Luke also appeared on the Ralph Lauren SS23 runway, along with FW23 shows for Emporio Armani and DSquared2. His distinct looks and bleach blonde locks make him appear like something out of a HBO fantasy show. It is these exact features that make him stand out as a new model. Luke is the type of model you can really push an idea with, that can excel in campaigns and editorials that are bigger than life. Not only that, someone with such a distinct look can make even the dullest of collections look interesting because he himself as a model brings so much boldness to fashion.

8. Jum Kuochnin (Success Models) @jumamachar

I think we all held our breath when Jum Kuochnin walked out on that Saint Laurent FW23 runway to close the show. Beauty like his is not a common find and the sheer luxury he brought to the garments he wore was unmatched by anything else we saw all season. Jum killed every runway he walked in the FW23, appearing for both Dior and Prada’s runways as well. There's no question about it, this is the birth of a star and it would be a crime to not have this guy in every campaign and show by the end of the year. Jum could really become one of the biggest stars on this list with the right support.

9. Shao Minghao (nextmodels) @shaom_inghao

Shao is a bright and promising runway model on the horizon. First seen this season on the runways of Prada and Dior FW23, Shao was one of the highlights of the season. What the industry needs right now is a new IT Boy for their runways and Shao is that boy. The fresh innocence of his face beholds that chic debut energy that all the major runway models had when they started. He has great potential to really be a must have model for brands of all kinds. He has that look of youth that makes the audience feel like they are witnessing something truly new and desirable. A model like Shao could be the very fresh and lasting energy that fashion is looking to capture.

10. Naman Narnolia (Faith Model Management) @namannarnolia

Naman caught the world’s eye on the Armani and Hermes SS23 & FW22 runways. He is such a refreshing face to see in fashion and especially on runways . He is one of the models that has debuted recently, but that feels like they have been learning the ropes behind the scenes long before that. This is something that I feel could really help Naman to become a very strong Top Model with the backing of the industry. It's a crime to not have more faces like his at the forefront of fashion. Furthermore, the industry needs a model like Naman to succeed in order to bring real fresh ideas and usher in more models that look like him. This is the real new energy fashion needs, to really include faces as bold and different from the commonly casted similar faces. Naman has a style and grace on the runway that makes clothes their best. We need models that are not only able to pull off a collection but also make you see it for the must have piece it is.